The Town of Baderimschott

   I got out all of my 15mm European terrain yesterday and set up a West German town for a future game of Team Yankee. It's pretty tight quarters throughout - a tanker's nightmare! Mostly, I wanted to see what all I actually have, and what I may still need. Plus, it was fun. I took a few photos, and here is what you get: the completely fictional town of Baderimschott, somewhere in West Germany.

   All pieces are Battlefront/GF9 Battlefield in a Box unless noted otherwise. The mat underneath is from Cigar Box Battle Mats.

Das Altquartier

This is the older part of town, undamaged by the previous war.

The cobblestone roads are JR Miniatures, and the little hedges are from someone else and I can't think who right now but I got them at Historicon.

Down the High Street

On the left is Die Waffelhaus,

On the right is the offices of FabrikwerkenGeheimschellschaft.

Aerial View of Baderimschott

Ignore the mess around it. The table is 4'x6'.

The back of the Park house and the hotel (with the garden on the plaza). The flowered hedges are railroad scenery that I glued to flocked popsicle sticks, and Shazaam! Instant terrain.

Industrial Park

Town Center

Note the apartment complex on the corner. Very modern. 

(I just painted the aircon units and need to add them still)

The Orchard Farm is on the right, the petrol station to the left, across from the FuntimeGames factory.

The fields are home made, the trees are railroad trees I put on washers.

   So, I have a few things I think I need to add:

• At least one more Modern Roads Expansion. I need the crossroads and the short road pieces. I may cut some of my extra long roads down to help with that.
• A couple of packs of the cobblestone roads
• A couple of the rural roads, while I am at it. I don't have any good dirt roads for this scale
• Two more apartment buildings, maybe three
• More Cobblestone Squares, probably two sets
• The new Brick Factory
• 1 of each of the houses: Antwerp, Munich, Cherbourg, and Dieppe, especially if I can get alternate colors.
• 1 set of House Extensions
• Another Mechanic's workshop. Might paint it red to make a fire house (an idea I saw online); what's the German for firehouse?
• Another set of concrete walls. Maybe 2 of those.
• The European Farm. Again, maybe two.
• A second department store, again, especially if I can get an alternate paint scheme
• The cafe, if I can ever find one for sale now.
• More trees. I am working on some forest bases to make better area terrain.

   I do have, though I didn't put any out on this table, some of the train tracks, and the rail station and the switch house. I also have the road overpass and a couple of bridges. I have a billboard sign or two that I haven't painted up yet. I need to decide what I want to put on them.

   Finally, I have a few pieces by Miniature Building Authority, but I like the FOW European stuff better for 15mm. I didn't put them out but I could if I had to make it bigger. I also have a sawmill but thought it would look out of place, as it's more old-fashioned.

   One last note: if I wanted to make it an East German town, I would get rid of the fast food joints and the flowery shrubs and trees. I would definitely want more apartment blocks, factories, and industrial stuff. Give it a bit more of a grim feel.

Habemus Hab Domes!

   So it was more like a month than a week. I've been busy. Gimme a break...

   But here they are, with the change of color scheme (it's not huge, but it's there). One slightly more obvious thing I did was swap color codes for Security and Mechanicals. So now Security domes are red, and Mechanicals are yellow.

   The fact that I don't actually have a security dome yet is in no way concerning to the inhabitants of the colony.

The lettering leaves a bit to be desired. I thought about making neat signs to attach.

Then I didn't do that and just painted it.

   I will try to get a shot of the whole layout as it stands now. Maybe tomorrow. It has been nice breaking out the brushes again, though.

Expanding the Habitat

   More stuff from the Ion Age, this time terrain. The Command dome was already 'finished' once, but I noticed I had missed some things and decided I wanted to make some changes to the color scheme. I'm thinking all hatches will be color coded from now on:

• Blue = Command Center
• Orange = Habitat (Living Quarters)
• Green = Science (Labs)
• Red = Mechanicals (Garages, etc.)
• Yellow = Security

   So, according to my scheme, this is obviously a Habitat Dome. I think I am going to make up some sort of signage for over the door on the hab domes. Or maybe at least a dome number beside the hatch? And... I just noticed I forgot to danger stripe the electrical cable on that dome. Back to the table for a quick fix.

   I have a few more pieces left to paint up for now: a four-way intersection, two domes, and two more corridor lengths. I think I am going to order a few more as well, at least one or two hab domes, a bit more corridor, the tower module, and maybe a blockhouse or turret section.

Interesting New Product for Builders

Litko has these in the Jim's Lab area right now. Strips of pre-made plywood shingles for buildings.

They are almost a foot long per strip. Five patterns to choose amongst.You get ten strips for $11.99.

Real Estate in Interwar Britain

   I was poking about a bit, looking for vendors of 28mm scale buildings suitable for A Very British Civil War game. I thought that the following links might prove helpful to others doing the same.

• Outpost Wargames (go to "Ranges", then "Building Frontages")
• PMC on eBay
• Warbases
• Mutton Chop Miniatures (phone box and post box)
• Oshiro Model Terrain (Victorian - useful for VSF, too, I imagine)

   All are based out of the UK. Postage might be an issue.

  As long as I am at it, if you are looking for miniatures to play, The Very British Civil War Miniatures Guide is an excellent starting point.

Troy... for sale!

   This was advertised on TMP (see here), and I thought it was so awesome, it needed to be showcased and supported. I mean, really? Freaking Travertine marble for the blocks on the walls? How cool is that? He's asking $425, and pickup at Historicon. If I wasn't flying in to the show, I'd be really tempted.

"There are 11' of walls/towers gates. Walls are 5" tall to top of parapet, 4" to walkway, 2.5" thick. 3 towers 8" tall, 6x6 wide with removable tops. 2 ramparts, 1 with removable floor. 2 gates. one with towers and hinged doors. Walls and towers are wood core with tile/ travertone stone masticked on and grouted. 10 buildings – foamboard / tile / wood, with removable roofs. everything on plywood bases."

 The whole city (I think)

Close up of one tower.

   You can see more pictures here.

Modular buildings

So I am thinking about making a kind of modular building for my kids' new Empire army. Wall panels, gable ends, ceiling panels. Connector pieces (both end to end and inside and outside corners), doors and windows, chimneys.

How tall do you thinkI need to make the walls for a single story? I was thinking 2 inches, maybe 2 1/2 inches.

The plan is to put a layer of sculpting clay onto a pre-cut base of either styrene or thin plywood. Call it about 1/8" thick. Then sculpt the pattern into it. Make an RTV mold of that, and cast in resin.

That's the plan. What about it? I need feedback before I get started.

European Gothic structures

If you follow my other blogs, you know by now that I have been sucked into the Warhammer world again. It's a great setting, I'll give it credit for that.

But I have virtually NO scenics for the Empire other than generic terrain. I already had a few things for the Lizardmen I was using for VSF, with a similar tropical feel. But half-timbered buildings? Wattle and daub? Nein.

Anyone have easy ways to make these buildings? I will need at least:

• Tavern or coaching inn
• Farmhouse
• Two or three townhomes
• Barn/stable
• Outbuildings
• Sigmarite Shrine

RTV Purchased

   I bought this past weekend the first RTV I have ever had.

   For those of you who don't already know, RTV stands for Room Temperature Vulcanizing. It's a silicone rubber material used to make molds for casting resin, plaster, etc. It generally can NOT be used for lead - the temperature is too high, melting the mold. I believe there are some types that can handle the high heat, though.

   What I got was a Smooth-On product, called OOMO 30, IIRC. It mixes in equal parts by volume (easy!). I have read good things about it on the internet, at TMP and other places. Found it at a local art supply store.

   So, obviously, the plan is to sculpt up some items, make molds, and get to casting. Some of these things will be scenics related, so I thought I would mention it here. Specifically, I want to create some doors and windows to be attached to buildings, in both 15mm and 25mm scales. It is a pain to try and scratch build them each time, so I am going to try and create some good masters to cast from. Might make some railings, chimneys and such, too. Start simple before trying something ambitious.

   Anyway, wish me luck. I have a nasty feeling I am gonna need it. When I get a space cleared to work on it, I'll get to work. Hopefully, pictures and such will be involved as well.

Martian Insulae

Like many pieces of terrain these days, my Martian insulae (old style apartment buildings) start off life as packaging material. In this case, I got hold of several of these pieces from the IT guy at my school - maybe five or six of them total. Each will eventually become a block of row-houses.
Same packaging, spray painted. I used three colors in successive layers, then went back and lightly 'dusted' with the lower colors to keep the sort of mottled look I was going for. I like the texture of the packaging as well - actually, it was as important as the interesting shape when I saw it laying there, discarded, looking for a way to be recycled. Man, I feel the urge to hug a tree or something...

One of the nooks and crannies between the humps looked (to me at least) just like a walkway between upper levels. So I put in two doors and a railing. Of course, they need painting still, but you get the idea.
In this last shot (again, not a great picture), you can see the ground level entries for two homes, plus chimneys (the mushroom-looking things) and windows for upper stories. The windows need painting, of course, and the doors are waiting on a trip to the store to purchase framing pieces for around them.

So far, I think they look pretty good. Thanks to a brief discussion with my friend Eli, I have some ideas for rooftop patios or gardens as well, with lattice gratings, maybe awnings. Let me know what you think, and I will keep you posted as I continue work on this little project.

Some VSF Work

First, the parrotmen hut. This could be any primitive hut, really. The base is a $1.00 miniature birdhouse I purchased at a local craft store (Michael's) in their bargain aisle. First I cut the rope loop off the top. Then I cut off the perch in the front and stained the whole thing with a dark walnut stain.

Finally, I used the earth-y looking underside of the pot-toppers I was telling you about in another posting to do the roof. Just make a cone shape by making a circle and then cutting out a quarter of it. Glue to the roof using some PVA (Elmer's) glue painted on pretty thickly. I used superglue to join the edges of the roofing material together. I think it looks like a peat or thatched roof of some sort.

All that is left to do on this one is the small porch/step I am using to replace the perch dowel.

This second piece is an older piece that is getting a facelift. It's gotten a touchup of my now-standard Martian sand, plus a few layers of the water effects stuff I have been using. Finally, I added a lot of reed bundles. These are about an inch tall, so very high reeds/grasses for 15mm, or tall grass for 25/28mm gaming.

Some VSF Work

   First, the parrotmen hut. This could be any primitive hut, really. The base is a $1.00 miniature birdhouse I purchased at a local craft store (Michael's) in their bargain aisle. First I cut the rope loop off the top. Then I cut off the perch in the front and stained the whole thing with a dark walnut stain.

   Finally, I used the earth-y looking underside of the pot-toppers I was telling you about in another posting to do the roof. Just make a cone shape by making a circle and then cutting out a quarter of it. Glue to the roof using some PVA (Elmer's) glue painted on pretty thickly. I used superglue to join the edges of the roofing material together. I think it looks like a peat or thatched roof of some sort.

   All that is left to do on this one is the small porch/step I am using to replace the perch dowel.

   This second piece is an older piece that is getting a facelift. It's gotten a touchup of my now-standard Martian sand, plus a few layers of the water effects stuff I have been using. Finally, I added a lot of reed bundles. These are about an inch tall, so very high reeds/grasses for 15mm, or tall grass for 25/28mm gaming.

[Edit 3/14/11: This is no longer my standard Martian ground. Oh well.]

Primitive Huts

Okay, these huts are just becoming available, although they have been discussed on The Miniatures Page (TMP) for over a year.

The sculptor (whose name I can't recall off the top of my head, but who goes by the TMP handle of Cacique Caribe, or CC) finished them, oh, November of 2007 I think. Then he shopped around for someone to handle the casting and marketing and such for him, as he didn't really want to do all of that himself, but there was a lot of interest in the models.

Enter Alex Bates in Alaska, of the new Forge of Ice company. They get a deal worked out, and now, they are in production.

First, a group shot. There are four different designs:

Now a close up of one:

I have nothing to do with the paint jobs (nice work, though, especially the snow) which were done I believe by a Mr Robert Phipps of the United Kingdom, a customer of Forge of Ice and friend of Alex's. I hope no one minds me swiping the photos, but I'll remove if you want me to!

I pinched this tidbit regarding the snow effect from TMP (http://theminiaturespage.com/)

"Regarding the snow effect, Rob [Phipp] says:

I Just use a bit of PVA wood glue on the bits I wanted covered in snow, then used a white flock, then another coat of PVA and then Bicarbonate of Soda for the snow effect. You get a nice brilliant crisp white from it.You don't have to use a white flock underneath but it stops any colour from the tent from showing through if your PVA is too thin.
And that's how he does it!

-Alex"

The reviews have been most complimentary, for both sculpting and quality of the production castings. You can reach Alex through his blog, and here's a link with more info and pictures of the tents. http://forum54.oli.us/index.php?topic=5205.15

Primitive Huts

Okay, these huts are just becoming available, although they have been discussed on The Miniatures Page (TMP) for over a year.

The sculptor (whose name I can't recall off the top of my head, but who goes by the TMP handle of Cacique Caribe, or CC) finished them, oh, November of 2007 I think. Then he shopped around for someone to handle the casting and marketing and such for him, as he didn't really want to do all of that himself, but there was a lot of interest in the models.

Enter Alex Bates in Alaska, of the new Forge of Ice company. They get a deal worked out, and now, they are in production.

First, a group shot. There are four different designs:

Now a close up of one:

I have nothing to do with the paint jobs (nice work, though, especially the snow) which were done I believe by a Mr Robert Phipps of the United Kingdom, a customer of Forge of Ice and friend of Alex's. I hope no one minds me swiping the photos, but I'll remove if you want me to!

I pinched this tidbit regarding the snow effect from TMP (http://theminiaturespage.com/)

"Regarding the snow effect, Rob [Phipp] says:

I Just use a bit of PVA wood glue on the bits I wanted covered in snow, then used a white flock, then another coat of PVA and then Bicarbonate of Soda for the snow effect. You get a nice brilliant crisp white from it.You don't have to use a white flock underneath but it stops any colour from the tent from showing through if your PVA is too thin.
And that's how he does it!

-Alex"

The reviews have been most complimentary, for both sculpting and quality of the production castings. You can reach Alex through his blog, and here's a link with more info and pictures of the tents. http://forum54.oli.us/index.php?topic=5205.15